Step 5

Now you have a cleaner bike to start removing the engine. Remove all the bolts and brackets, don’t forget the one under the motor, and lift the lump out of the right hand side. You do not need to remove the top end, it comes out in one piece no problem.

You should now have something like this in front of you – although this picture show the YPVS loom and coil fitted.

Step 6

Fit the YPVS ignition switch to the RG top Yoke. It will fit with a bit of filing to the bolt holes, take your time to get it lined up with the lockstops on the frame and the steering lock will work as well. Fit the left and right switchgear onto the bars, but leave the clutch and throttle cables off for now. Now lay the YPVS loom onto the frame. And see where you want to put all the boxes. The fusebox sits nicely on the rear mudguard behind the rear brake reservoir, with the YPVS box just behind. The CDI and Regulator then sat where the RG airbox was and the RG battery tray is retained. See the pic above for where the coils go.

Try to sit the regulator in a place where it keeps cool.

You can still access to fuse box in this position.

Switchgear and ignition switch fitted.

Step 7

You WILL need to remove the top end of the YPVS motor. I tried all sorts of ways to get it to fit in with no joy. Anyhow whilst it’s off you can send it away to be tweaked by someone like Mick Abbey (http://www.two-stroke-addicts.freeserve.co.uk/mick/new.htm). Then remove the sprocket cover as this will need to be chopped to fit the frame. Some people need to file the motor at the bottom on the clutch cover/motor joint, but I didn’t need to. Offer it up and see first.

Step 8

Fit the motor into the frame into the frame using the spacers that you’ve had machined and the original RG engine bolts. The chain lines up nice, but I had to modify the chain guard as it rubbed a bit.

(continued on page 3)

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