Page 3

Now stand back and grin!!!

Front spacers shown.

Rear spacers shown.

This picture shows the sprocket cover modified to fit the frame. I re-used the RG gear lever – BUT this will give you a reversed shift pattern so beware.

Step 9

You can now fit the top end onto the motor. The only way I could get it to fit was to fit the pistons into the cylinders first, and then lower them onto the motor. I know this is obvious, but make sure the piston circlip can’t fall into the cases when you go to fit it! Before you start, offer up the L/H cylinder complete with the PV housing. You’ll find that you need to file a few mil off the forward bolt ‘bulge’ to miss the frame downtube.

This is one of my lovely barrels…

The top end on.

Step 10

Now things start to get tricky! Offer the RG radiator up to the frame. The first things that are obvious are that the hoses are a nightmare! Look at the pics to see what I mean.

The top hose problem!

The bottom hose problem.

I found that I have only used the lower rubbers and tilted the rad forwards slightly to allow the hoses to fit. To do this you will need to relocate the horn(by the cdi?) and make up some weird hoses to suit. I blagged some old hose parts from my local Triumph dealer that I chopped up and used some sleeve with. The top hose was just an angled bit of hose that sort of fits? It’s got a bit of a kink so I placed a jubilee clip at this point to keep it round. Again I will be changing that.

The bottom hose is just 2 right angle hoses with a joining sleeve(a bit of old mountain bike handlebar!!) It works! You will find that you have a spare brass coolent fitting on the rear of the head. Block it up and remove the thermostat – job done. Look at the pic in step 11 if you want to see how I blocked it for initial start-up!! No, I do not recommend the use of AAA batteries for this purpose! Now fill with coolent before you forget.

As you can see, the top of the rad will need some brackets making up to support it.
(continued on page 4)

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